The Maine Sunday Telegram has published an interview with Dan Kleban, co-founder of Maine Beer Co.
Dan Kleban is living every home brewer’s dream: He’s built a profitable craft brewery that’s got national influence, and he’s using that money and influence to make the world a better place.
Bill Leavy, co-owner and chef of East Ender has shared plans to leave the restaurant for a new career outside the hospitality industry at the end of this month.
Leavy’s business partner and co-chef/owner Karl Deuben will continue operating the restaurant along with GM Janet Webber.
After 20 years in the industry, 16 of them in Portland, ME, I’ve decided it’s time to try something new. The lessons I’ve learned from the chefs I had the pleasure to works under will undoubtably assist me in future endeavors. From my beginnings at Hugo’s and Rob Evans, to Back Bay Grill with Larry Matthews to Masa Miyake, I will always feel incredibly fortunate to have spent time in their kitchens and learn from their experience.
I am grateful for all the wonderful people I’ve the chance to work with throughout my culinary career (looking at you Camille Mann). Most importantly my wife Janet Webber and my business partner and friend Karl Deuben. I am delighted with what we have achieved at the East Ender over the past five years and excited to witness the continued success from across a table.
Leavy and Deuben co-founded the Small Axe food truck in 2013 as part of the first crop of entrepreneurs to launch mobile food businesses after the city approved the ordinance the prior year. They expanded their business and built on their prior success by taking over the East Ender in 2015.
Welcome to the February edition of My Kitchen, Their Table, an interview series with the chefs and culinary professionals who work hard to satisfy our small city’s big appetite. This month we’re featuring an interview with Chad Conley. Photos and videos will continue to expand on the story throughout the rest of the month on Instagram, so stay tuned.
“It feels right.” That’s one phrase Chad Conley kept coming back to when describing some of his favorite dishes and restaurants in Portland. Whether it’s somewhere that feels “untouched by time” or “welcomes all walks of life,” the way a place makes him feel often creates a more memorable experience than the food itself.
It’s no wonder his own restaurants offer more than an excellent meal. The Palace Diner experience starts before you even walk through the door. With only fifteen seats, you’ll be waiting outside among several other eager customers. Inside, you’ll feel like you’re in an entirely different decade, but which one? Built in 1927, the original manufacturing labels and hood are still in place while the stainless steel was likely added in the sixties and the mixed tile work is reminiscent of the seventies, eighties, and nineties, depending on where you’re looking. As for the food, it’s familiar, yet surprising, and has just the right amount of grease. You can’t go wrong no matter what you order from his Instagram-famous tuna salad sandwich to buttermilk flapjacks that are so good Epicurious snagged the recipe.
Rose Foods is another time warp, outfitted with retro decor and inspired by a combination of a mid-century Jewish deli and an appetizing store. An appetizing is the lesser-known cousin to the Jewish deli. The two are distinctly different. A deli sells meat whereas an appetizing sells fish, spreads, and other foods commonly eaten with bagels. At Rose Foods, you can have both; whether it’s a pile of hot pastrami on tender rye bread or a housemade bagel with a schmear of cream cheese and smoked sable. In true appetizing fashion, you can also purchase containers of sour pickles, prepared salads, and other goodies to enjoy at home.
Both Palace Diner and Rose Foods are adored by locals and tourists alike, not just for the food, but for the memorable dining experience each provides. Whether it’s nostalgia, a glimpse into a previous era, or simply the warm and welcoming staff, there’s something about eating at Palace Diner and Rose Foods that just feels right.
AA: What is it, as a serial entrepreneur, that guides your decision-making about what makes for a good restaurant concept?
CC: It’s blend of intuition, inspiration, and experience. I’m not operating in a well-financed restaurant group that has the ability to put a lot of energy into research. The big ideas are guided mostly by moving in whatever direction seems fun and interesting at the time and doing a gut-check to see if I think that people will respond to that type of food and experience. I’ve been fortunate that my own interests have lined up well with the interests of Portland’s food scene.
AA: Where did you come up with the idea to serve a thick slice of iceberg lettuce on the tuna sandwich at Palace Diner?
CC: When I was working at Jean-Georges in New York City we did this raw fish dish with iceberg. I had to cut the head of lettuce into a cube and then sculpt perfect rectangular pieces from it and then we would drape a slice of madai on top, sort of like nigiri. So, when we started designing the tuna sandwich at Palace, we wanted to use that technique instead of shredding the lettuce or just using individual leaves. It adds a lot more crunch and height.
AA: Do you have a favorite menu item at Rose Foods?
CC: If there is one thing I eat often at Rose, it’s the whitefish salad sandwich. It’s different from most whitefish salad, which is usually really smooth and mayonnaise-y. Ours is chunky and very lightly dressed. It’s a lot more substantial.
AA: Where in Portland do you like to go out to eat with your family?
CC: Yosaku is one of our spots. We sit down and they’re pouring water and before we even look at the menu we’re like, ‘Can we please order a Kids Bento Box?’ It’s this tower of little dishes and a bowl of miso soup. The top is just the lid, but it’s also a shallow bowl. The middle has seaweed salad, edamame, and something sweet. The bottom has rice, your choice of protein, and a cooked vegetable. It’s inexpensive and fun for the kids.
AA: I heard you have a weakness for soft serve. Where do you go for it?
CC: The Dairy Queen in South Portland. It’s independently owned. They don’t participate in the national promotions you see on television. To me, it’s what soft serve ice cream should be. It’s thick, it’s runny, it’s just fake enough that it feels about right.
AA: What do you order?
CC: A small vanilla cone with chocolate dip. Occasionally, I’ll try something random just to shake it up, and everytime I’m like, ‘Oh, yea I should have gotten the usual.’
AA: Have you had Honey Paw’s soft serve?
CC: Yes, it’s really good. I go there when I want something fancier and more interesting. It’s different. It’s a little more dense. The flavors are really intense and they add fancy, crunchy toppings. There’s the classic and a seasonal one. I usually get both.
AA: Do you have a go-to restaurant?
CC: J’s Oyster Bar is a staple for me. I always get a dirty martini with extra olives. You get a full martini glass plus this mini carafe that’s basically another drink. It’s a lot of booze, but it feels like the right environment for it. It’s divey and luxurious at the same time.
AA: What do eat?
CC: I like to get a bucket of steamers, especially when I’m with people visiting Portland for the first time. You go through the ritual, like, ‘This is how you peel the clam, then you dip it in water, and then the butter.’ A lot of people have never done that before.
AA: There are a lot of places to get steamers in Portland. Is there a reason you go to J’s in particular?
CC: It has a little bit more of the soul of Portland. It’s on the waterfront. It feels sort of untouched by time and it’s also a very welcoming place. It feels nice to share space with people you might not otherwise. I like places that encourage that.
This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.
Editor’s Note: Since this interview took place, Conley began working on a third restaurant. Ramona’s is a Philly-inspired breakfast and lunch hoagie shop under construction at 98 Washington Ave slated to open this spring.
The My Kitchen Their Table series is brought to life through the hard work of food writer Angela Andre, and the generous sponsorship by Evergreen Credit Union and The Boulos Company.
Cheftimony has published a podcast interview with Sara Jenkins the chef and owner of Nina June in Rockport.
Born in Maine, Chef spent much of her childhood in Italy, from Tuscany to Rome. To me Sara’s childhood sounds idyllic, and today you’ll hear Chef describe her history with food, from waking up at 4:00am in Rome to the aroma of baking bread, to experiencing Italo-American food when she returned to the US, to making her mark on the culinary scene through her restaurants Porchetta, Porsena, and Nina June. Chef is also a cookbook author, and has recently co-authored The Four Seasons of Pasta with her mother.
A new column launches on Portland Food Map today. Welcome to My Kitchen, Their Table, an interview series with the chefs and culinary professionals who work hard to satisfy our small city’s big appetite.
When it comes to Portland’s food scene, few people know it better than the very chefs immersed in it. Not only do they challenge themselves in their own kitchens, but they gain inspiration from their colleague’s tables around town. This got us thinking. How could we delve into the details of Portland’s best dishes – not just from the perspectives of the chefs who craft them, but from their fellow professionals as well?
Thanks to the generous sponsorship of Evergreen Credit Union, each month you’ll now find a new Q&A posted here on PFM. Photos and videos will continue to expand on the story throughout the month on Instagram.
In the first few months, you’ll see how Chad Conley prepares the ultimate tuna melt at Palace Diner, and where he takes visitors to show them the “soul of Portland.” You’ll learn how Bowman Brown makes Elda’s iconic lobster dish so succulent, and watch a chef he respects construct a dish that truly blows him away.
This series has been created with PFM’s new roving reporter, Angela Andre. Angela has a Masters of Arts in Food Studies from NYU, works in the seafood industry, and is a talented food writer and home cook. It’s been fun to work with her to pull this all together and we’re excited for you to experience the fruits of her labor.
So without further ado, here is the first Q&A, featuring Courtney Loreg, the chef at Woodford Food & Beverage. Check back tomorrow on the PFM instagram account (@PortlandFoodMap) for a story on how Courtney builds and broils her popular brisket burger. Then, stay tuned throughout the rest of the month to hear, see, and read about her favorite Portland restaurants and dishes.
Courtney Loreg may be from Kansas City, but she knows Portland’s food scene better than most natives. Loreg first moved here in 2001, shortly after Rob Evans took over Hugo’s and just before Five Fifty-Five debuted; long before our seaside city was named one of the best places to eat in the country. She’s not only witnessed Portland evolve into the food destination it is today, but has personally contributed to its growth and recognition.
Loreg got her local start at Fore Street where she served as sous chef for four years. In 2001, Fore Street ranked sixteenth in Gourmet magazine’s Top Fifty Restaurants of the United States. In 2005, she helped open Two Fat Cats Bakery where she assisted with recipe development and whipped up their famous whoopie pies. She then spent a couple years working side-by-side with Chef Krista Desjarlais at the beloved Bresca.
Today, Loreg is the Executive Chef at Woodford Food & Beverage. Established in January of 2016, Woodford F&B is an American brasserie serving hearty, fine food with a local twist in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. Woodford F&B has been featured in The Boston Globe, Zagat, Wine Enthusiast, and was named one of the best restaurants and best places for brunch in Portland by Condé Nast Traveler.
AA: You’re pretty well known for your burger. What makes it special?
CL: For me, the burger had to represent the casual, but more upscale restaurants I grew up going to in Kansas City where you could get a nice steak, but there was no shame in getting a burger either. So, I approach the burger the same way that I would approach any other dish. The treatment of the ingredients is special. The onions are grilled and marinated. The brioche bun is made locally by Atsuko from Norimoto Bakery. The pickles are housemade. There’s dijonnaise. And I make a cheese blend that I think is better than just a slice of cheese. It’s a mixture of cheddar, french cream cheese, shallots, white wine, mustard, and paprika formed into a patty that melts.
AA: It sounds like the cheese is a defining characteristic of your burger.
CL: The cheese element and ratio of meat-to-cheese is absolutely crucial. It’s gotta be, like, three-quarters meat and one-quarter cheese. So, I use a cheese blend and a slice of cheese. I have a tendency to go pretty hard-to-the-paint with cheese. I’ve never had anyone come back and say, ‘It’s not enough cheese.’ [watch chef Loreg make her excellent burger]
AA: What other dishes are you known for?
CL: I’m getting high marks for the chicken tenders (laughs). Which is also on purpose! I brine the meat and bread the tenders in house and serve them with my own honey dijon mustard. We’ve always said we wanted to be a restaurant where there would be no shame taking your kids there. You can still have an adult meal and not feel like you’re forcing your kid to eat something or worse, have them not eat anything at all. The point is for everyone to walk away having a great time and also maybe feel like they had a better meal than they thought they were going to. For me, I want you to be able to think “Wow, I did not expect that.” The whole idea of under promise over deliver I think is very real.
AA: How would you describe Portland?
CL: We have an embarrassment of riches. We have all of the farms and all of the things. You can throw a rock in any direction and hit a good cup of coffee or a good meal. You can go see a show. Go to the beach. You can drive. Or not. It’s very walkable. We have all the creature comforts. We’re doing alright.
AA: How would you describe its food scene?
CL: Portland is a destination and food tourism is a big thing here now, but it’s not formal. All of our fine dining options have to be looked through the lens of ‘Vacationland.’ People want to have a nice meal, but they also want to sit around in their flip flops and have their kids there.
AA: What is a particularly memorable dish you’ve eaten in Portland?
CL: I went to a six-course French dinner event at Hugo’s with guest chef Fred Eliot. He’s kind of getting known for pâté en croûte. He did a couple pâtés and one of them really struck me. It was chicken and sweetbreads and I believe it had morels in it. It was really beautiful and really delicious. I was like, ‘Wow, I never would have thought of that.’
AA: Have you been to any newer restaurants recently?
CL: I just went to Gross Confection Bar and it was really good, not that I was expecting anything less. Brant Dadaleares is enormously accomplished, obviously very passionate and driven, and just puts out delicious things. Also, I like the location. It feels very special. Every time I walk by there, there’s always people looking at his sandwich board saying to each other, ‘Should we do it?’ and you just walk by and you’re like ‘Do it. Just do it. Just go down there.’ [watch chef Dadaleares make a caramel cranberry upside down cake]
AA: What are some of your favorite dishes in town?
CL: Paulo Laboa’s pesto pasta at Solo Italiano. You can’t get out of there without having a great meal, but he’s known far and wide for this pesto and it is no joke. It is the best pesto pasta I have ever had. It’s a very refined pesto. There’s no textural element. It just becomes part of the pasta. It’s outstanding. [watch chef Laboa make his famous pesto]
AA: Are there any other dishes you think are the pinnacle of what they are?
CL: There are several dishes in this town that I think are absolute benchmarks. The turnspit roasted pork chop at Fore Street is probably the best version of that thing I’ve ever had. It’s something you’d never get tired of, even working there. I’d eat the scraps of it that were leftover at the end of the night. It’s one of those flavor memories that has remained in my brain. Any other pork chop is just a race for second place.
AA: What is another “absolute benchmark?”
CL: I feel like I’m stating the obvious, but… that biscuit at Tandem is awesome! I don’t say that very often. I like the savory one with local cheese, hot honey, and black pepper. It has great layers and it’s just sweet enough. It’s not bland, not like baking powder biscuits that I grew up eating. I’m from the Midwest and strawberry shortcake is cake! Even after the many years I’ve spent in New England, I still don’t understand the world of biscuit for strawberry shortcake. But that biscuit… I don’t think I’d be mad at you if you served me strawberry shortcake on that biscuit. [watch chef Briana Holt make her savory biscuits]
AA: Then I’m guessing you have some strong opinions on barbeque as well?
CL: Don’t even get me started on barbeque…
This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.
Staff from Bard Coffee and Speckled Ax participated in the US Coffee Championships qualifying event that took place over this past weekend in Nashville.
Congratulations to all three that have placed high enough to participate in the national championships taking place later this year:
Portland-based next gen apple expert Sean Turley (aka The Righteous Russet) was interviewed for the latest issue of Malus about his deep interest in apples and his documentary apple instagram account.
What does the music of Sun Ra, 16th century Basque whaling ships, wanted posters, and Sherlock Holmes all have in common?
Well in the mind of John Bunker, the preeminent American apple expert and resident of Palermo Maine, the answer is Apples of course!
In 2019 the world of apple enthusiasts around the globe was enriched when Bunker published his new book Apples and the Art of Detection.
Part instruction manual, part autobiography, and part history, Bunkers new book is fascinating start to finish. You can pick up at a copy at Rabelais Books in Biddeford or online at the Out on a Limb Apple CSA.
Another year of great food and evolution of the Portland dining scene has gone by, and I’ve taken a moment to sort what took place and assembled this report on the notable events and trends of 2019:
The most popular articles published on Portland Food Map in the past year.
semifinalists, Figgy’s chef/owner Natalie DiBenedetto appeared on Chopped, word broke about Magnus on Water, Sam and Rob Minervino took over Pizza Villa, Portland Food Map began publishing monthly restaurant real estate listings; Strata, Oxbow Beer Garden, the Kuno food truck launched.
temporarily closed Fore Street, the inaugural Seaweed Week, the first Turamali pop-up took place at Belleville, Northern Hospitality was named an IACP awards Finalist, Mary Ann Esposito was the guest of honor at a Solo Italiano dinner, Atsuko Fujimoto founded Norimoto Bakery, Rose Foods launched a guest chef series; Cheevitdee began serving breakfast, the Other Side Diner, Royale Lunch Bar, Maiz opened.
celebrated their 25th, the 2nd annual PFM paper pocket guide was released, the 2nd Annual Portland Wine Week took place, Wine Enthusiast named Drifters one of the 100 Best Wine Restaurants in the country, Northern Hospitality was a final nominee for a Tales of the Cocktail award; Coals Pizza, Island Lobster Company, Poke Maine, LB Kitchen West, Yardie Ting, Bánh Appétit, Huong Ice Cream Coffee Shop, Lorne Wine and the Forest Ave Blake Orchard opened; Local Sprouts closed.
Portland, the New York Times has published an article on Bluet, Conde Nast Traveler has published a set of articles about Portland, Chaval was the featured restaurant for an Outstanding in the Field dinner, Mr. Tuna kicked on a dinner series – Mr. T’s Night Market – with guest chef Sang Lee, David Mallari appreared on Chopped; the Cider House, the Old Port edition of Po’ Boys & Pickles, and Chula Elotes opened; Brian Boru, Silly’s and Simply Vegan by Silly’s closed.
with the tag line Small City Big Appetite, Man & Oak kicked off a set of whiskey blending workshops, the 6th Annual Heirloom Apple Tasting with a follow-up event taking place at the Blaine House, Culinary historian Michael Twitty gave a talk at USM, The Boston Globe has published an article about The Purple House and its chef/owner Krista Kern Desjarlais, Harvest on the Harbor took place, the Independent Ice Company earned their Executive Bourbon certification from the Stave & Thief Society, Coffee by Design was recognized by Roast Magazine as their 2020 Macro Roaster of the Year; Candy’s and CBG opened, Terlingua announced plans to move into the former Silly’s building, Burke’s Perks replaced One Six Green in Monument Square, the Toast Bar extended their hiatus due to the lack of staff, and Flying Fox juice bar closed
Andy’s Old Port Pub with plans to reopen it, the Maine Sunday Telegram examined whether the Portland restaurant industry is a bubble about to burst, Thrillist included the Hunt & Alpine Club on their list of the Best Cocktail Bars in America, the Maine Bicentennial Community Cookbook project launched; Nura opened, Maria’s reopened after completing a move to the former Espo’s space on Congress Street; The 5 Spot and Rockin Ricky’s Closed.For some other perspectives on the past year see articles by Andrew Ross and Avery Yale Kamilla, and annual A to Z roundup in the Maine Sunday Telegram.
Here are links to the Portland Food Map year in review reports for 2018, 2017, 2016, 2015, 2014, 2013, 2012, 2011, and 2010.
Sur Lie has hired Jef Wright as the restaurant’s new executive chef.
Wright is a Le Cordon Bleu Culinary Academy graduate. In 2019 he’s been the sous chef as part of the team assembled by Christian Hayes to launch The Garrison. Wright is originally from Florida and for several years he worked in Atlanta with chef Richard Blais, “focused on molecular gastronomy as a means to reimagine and refine traditional southern dishes.” Wright has also worked for a 2 Michelin star restaurant in New York, and worked in the Philadelphia.
According to the release,
His style is best described as heavily influenced by traditional French and Spanish cuisine with a love for upscale Southern always focusing on refined techniques…Jef is thrilled to be stepping back into the role of Executive Chef and leading the kitchen at Sur Lie. He looks forward to sharing his excitement and passion for delicious, sophisticated cuisine with Portland.
Wright will be taking over the position held by Emil Rivera since Sur Lie opened in 2014. You’ll recall word spread that Rivera was moving to a new roll back in October. The long notice has enable Rivera to be involved with the recruitment and interviewing of his replacement in conjunction with Sur Lie owners Tony and Krista Cole.
Wright takes over starting December 21st and the restaurant has indicated, “Sur Lie fans can expect to see his imprint on the menu becoming more clear as the new year progresses.”