John Golden writes of “culinary rapture” in his new review of Vinland.
The cocktail menu was another otherworldly trip into the unknown where the height of improbabilities became strikingly real. The spirits were local like the Barr Hill Gin gimlet made with condensed yogurt whey and white pine syrup. Or the Negroni with more locally distilled gin topped by house-made garnet red bitter spirits and Vinland sweet-beet vermouth. These were starry-eyed drinks even the most ascendant mixologist could love.