Review of Union

The Portland Phoenix has reviewed Union.

The entrees have similar virtues. You know a fancy restaurant is really exploring comfort food when it has turkey and pot roast on the menu. The later was quite good, with a generous serving of tender meat surrounded by jus soaked root vegetables. A bit of truffle and fresh horseradish animated the rich flavors. A risotto dish was served a great al-dente, with fat slices of grilled pear scattered about. It had some blue cheese, but it was mild enough that it did not overwhelm the nutty flavor of a walnut pesto dolloped in the middle of the dish.