Loco Pollo

Loco PolloThe Portland Phoenix has reviewed Loco Pollo.

Loco Pollo gets the tamale right in many ways. They respect tradition without becoming mired in it. They use enough lard to impart some richness without making the dough heavy. They steam them long enough to keep them moist but not wet. They use several wrappings, cornhusk in the Mexican style and banana leaf like the Central Americans, which impart different subtle flavors to the meal. And they fill them with meats, cheeses, and chilis fresh and ample enough that the soggy aroma fills your head.