Review of In a Silent Way

Today’s Maine Sunday Telegram includes a four star review of In a Silent Way in Wiscasset.

Co-owners Chandler Sowden and Zack Goodwin have put together a masterful selection of wines served in some of the best glassware you’ll ever encounter, as well as a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it-length menu of exquisitely prepared, vegetable-focused small plates. Sip a glass of tart, pale Guy Breton Régnié and order food with abandon. Everything I ate at In a Small Way was a delight, most especially a watermelon salad with peppers, tomato, feta and cilantro, and an exquisitely roasted eggplant in a nearly raw passata of Sungold tomatoes.

There have been a number of changes in the Wiscasset restaurant scene over the last year or so:

  • In late 2022 owners of the now closed Ruby’s West End in Portland opened Back River Bistro at the former location of Little Village Bistro.
  • Longtime mainstay Sarah’s closed earlier this year with the retirement of its namesake owner Sarah Heald. In its place Jodie Roquemore is opening a new rendition of her restaurant Jodie’s Cafe and Bakery.
  • A new raw bar named Jolie Rogers opened earlier this summer. They’re located on the water-facing side of the same building as In a Silent Way.
  • Treats and Water Street Kitchen + Bar remain established favorites in Wiscasset as are Sprague’s and Red’s.
  • Just a short drive away is The Alna Store, a restaurant and market in the small town of Alna.

Oak & Ember Opens Friday

Oak & Ember (website, instagram), the new farm-to-table gastropub in Buxton, is scheduled to open on Friday. Owner Shannon Keefe and her team have lightly renovated the former Buxton Common building. It includes an outdoor deck that seats 38, and a variety of rooms and seating areas inside the building that overall seats 60.

Chef Kirby Sholl is the executive chef at Oak & Ember. Sholl was formerly the chef de cuisine at Chaval. The menu (see below) includes a mix of small bites, apps, pasta and mains. Shown above are the Grilled Shrimp and the Grilled Iberian Pork.

The beverage program includes wines (mostly old world) by the glass, draft and packaged beer/cider/seltzer and a short list of house-designed cocktails. In addition to the restaurant there’s also a on-site wine shop that will sell all the wines of the by-the-glass and bottle list offered at Oak & Ember.

Oak & Ember will initially be open Wednesday through Sunday for dinner. Reservations are available online on Resy.com.

Maine Food & Dining News

Here are some recent food and dining highlights from around the state:

Maine Food and Dining News

Here are some recent food and dining highlights from around the state:

Maine Food & Dining News

Here are some recent food and dining highlights from around the state:

Ore Nell’s North in Biddeford

Ore Nell’s North (website, facebook, instagram), the Biddeford outpost of Ore Nell’s BBQ in Kittery, opened for business on Wednesday. It’s located just across the parking lot from Palace Diner at 42 Franklin Street in the building formerly occupied by Louie’s Pizza.

Ore Nell’s serves Texas-style barbecue (see menu below) that’s a reflection of chef Will Myska’s Houston upbringing. The menu includes brisket, ribs, pulled pork, other meats and even BBQ tofu as well as sandwiches, traditional sides. There’s also a children’s menu. Shown here are a plate of their Saint Louis ribs, brisket, collard greens and a loaded baked potato (top right), a smoked chicken taco from the day’s specials menu (bottom left), and a Toxic Mezcalinity cocktail (bottom right).

This week they will be open Wednesday through Sunday, 4 – 9 pm. Hours will expand next week and Ore Nell’s plans to eventually be open seven days a week.

The original Ore Nell’s in Kittery launched in 2018 as a collaboration between Myska, David Vargas from Vida Cantina in Portsmouth and restaurateur Jay McSharry. Kyle Chauncey has joining the founders in launching the Biddeford location.


Wander at Longwoods Now Open

Wander at LongWoods (website, facebook, instagram) opened last Wednesday. The farm-to-table restaurant is located off Route 9 near the center of town in Cumberland. The restaurant is part of the overall Longwoods Preserve (instagram) project which will include walking trails, a sculpture garden and a farm to supply produce and other ingredients for the restaurant.

The menu (see below) takes a locally-focused approach both for the food and as a touchpoint for the cocktail program. Wines by the glass/bottle and beer from Maine producers like Allagash, Bissell, Oxbow and Nonesuch are also available. The dessert menu includes panna cotta, a butter cake topped with local berry puree, gluten-free donuts, ice cream, sorbet and espresso-based coffees.

The restaurant can accommodate close to 100 customers overall including a large outdoor seating area with picnic tables and Adirondack chairs looking out over the open fields surrounding the restaurant. If you sit outside be sure to try the wood-fired pizza. The Saint Fergus is topped with mozzarella, bone marrow butter, breadcrumbs, parsley, shallots, capers and gray sea salt.

Mike Allen is the executive chef, Rich Maggi is the restaurant’s chef de cuisine, and Molly and Jordan McDuffie, are the Longwood farmers with Joe Atwood as the overall general manager.

Wander is open Wednesday through Sunday, 4 – 9 pm. They’ve been operating Wander on a walk-in basis for its first week, but starting August 9th they’ll begin taking reservations—visit wanderatlongwoods.com starting Wednesday to book a table.

Maine Food & Dining News

Here are some recent food and dining highlights from around the state:

  • Rabelais Books owner Don Lindgren has announced he’s shutting down the bookstore’s Biddeford retail shop. Lindgren will continue to operate the rare book component of Rabelais as a virtual business. The bookstore will remain open through the remainder of August, Thursday to Sunday, 10 am to 4 pm with a 30% discount on all books priced under $1,000.
  • Wolfpeach in Camden will be closing permanently. The Camden restaurant opened in late 2021 and was a James Beard Awards semifinalist for Best New Restaurant in 2023. Earlier this year Wolfpeach transitioned to a pizza-centric menu and has also been home to Pastoralia Wines which has run a daytime wine shop and wine bar from the restaurant.
  • Jodie’s Cafe and Bakery has announced they’ll be moving their operations to 45 Water Street in Wiscasset where they’ll be serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. Last month owner Jodie Roquemore purchased the former Sarah’s Cafe from longtime owner Sarah Heald. The new Jodie’s is expected to open sometime in August.
  • The Bangor Daily News reported on the use of invasive green crabs on the menu at Must Be Nice Lobster in Belfast.

Maine Food & Dining News

Here are some food and dining highlights from around the state: