NYT: the Maine Kneading Conference

The New York Times Dining section visited the 2010 Kneading Conference that took place this Summer in Skowhegan and reports on the expanding capacity to grow and process local wheat, in Maine and elsewhere.

The Kneading Conference is part of a quiet revolution whose center is Skowhegan, a town in central Maine that produced enough grain in the 1830s to feed 100,000 people. As interest in local food has risen, federal and state agriculture departments are underwriting experiments to find the best varieties of wheat, and artisanal bakers are eagerly trying the flours they produce. But it is the conference that has helped turn the scattered movement into the next new thing for locavores, and the practical topics discussed this year — building more gristmills, making old farm manuals available — reveal its progress from infancy to adolescence.